KORVAA

During my time as Lead Material Designer on the Korvaa project, I led the material integration strategy for a pioneering Next-gen upper at Modern Synthesis.

Companies in the Korvaa Consortium:
Ecovative, Modern Synthesis, Ourobio, and Photino Science Communications

Nature doesn’t maximise – it optimises. Inspired by this principle, the Korvaa Consortium set out to design one of fashion’s most complex products – the running shoe – the way that nature might. 

Traditional footwear uses 30+ material components, with undesirable impacts at every stage: from petrochemical origins through to harmful chemicals, dyes, adhesives, and performance finishes. 

By beautiful contrast, this world-first concept shoe uses just five biologically-derived material inputs: mycelium, bacterial nanocellulose, polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs), cotton, and lyocell. Each material was selected for its specialised function, and developed by leading biomaterial companies commercialising these technologies.

• The shoe upper was made by Modern Synthesis from nanocellulose – an extremely strong natural compound produced by microbes – combined with a 100% cotton substrate. 

• The midsole was 3D-printed by Ourobio using PHAs – bio-based, biodegradable polyesters that offer structure without petro-derived plastics. 

• The sole was made by Ecovative from mycelium, the root-like system of fungi, which is grown directly through the PHA scaffold to form a structured base unit. 

• The shoe was constructed using traditional string-lasting techniques, finished with laces and support linings made of cotton and lyocell. 

The collaboration was documented by Photino Science Communications, a Finnish science communication company. Their full-length documentary, “Planet of the Microbes”, follows the journey from lab to artefact. The film is slated to premiere at an international festival later this year.

The Korvaa shoe offers a blueprint for rethinking complexity through collaboration. It’s a step beyond sustainability, signalling a new production paradigm where science, design and manufacturing converge to solve material challenges with nature’s elegance and efficiency.